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PODGORICA - CULTURE


Even though poor, scientific data about the first civilizations on the present territory of Podgorica, are the witness of always actual topography when we are talking about the culture in these areas. The oldest remains of the culture belong to the younger neolith and are found at the localities of Sobajici, Trijebac, and Steci, while the remains from the bronze age can be found on Medvedja glava (BEAR’S HEAD), Rogamske strane (ROGAME SIDES), and Tuzi. First primitive fortifications – hill forth are being built which can be interesting to all those who are interested in the beginnings of civilization in these areas. Extensive archeological diggings, especially in the area of Gostilje, where a necropolis was discovered, then the diggings in Tuzi, Momisici, and in Zeta give sufficient data for tracking all cultural manifestation in history and development of the Illyrian community and their assimilation with different people, in this area. The tribe Lebeati, of whom we already spoke, has found itself under the influence of Hellenism and Rome, and somewhat later under the influence of Celts, Avars, and Slavs. With the research of Illyrian fortified lodgments researchers have come to valuable data about the former way of life and about former buildings; especially valuable are the fragmented ceramics from that period.

In the period of Roman domination Duklja has a special place. Specific construction grew from a smaller castle to a fortified town, and later municipal, which through antique period was always the center of cultural, political, ad religious importance. Despite the numerous destructions again and again it was renewed and today it is one of the most precious cultural monuments, mot just in the narrow area of Podgorica region, but also as a part of a wider mosaic which gives a picture of Roman civilization in this territory. Archeological diggings have discovered a main street and several monumental facilities, among which the most distinguished one is a spacious forum with a basilica. On the west part of the city territory there are three temples, of smaller sizes, which were dedicated to goddess Diana. Beside them there are triumphal arch, private houses and terms with pools and floor mosaics. Basilica with three transepts is situated in the east part and it is considered that it was built in the early VI century. Interesting to say is that, on the grounds of the previously mentioned basilica, in the early medieval period a small church was erected, in the shape of a cross. In the town one can find also the remains of the episcope basilica from the V century with especially beautiful floor mosaics. With strenuous work and expert interventions a part of these edifices is preserved and a visitor can see them.

Art and cultural existence get a completely new direction with the arrival of the Slav tribes. Even though rare and until today not sufficiently examined, the cultural monuments from this period, point out the strong influence form one side of the West Roman civilization, and from the other of the East Byzantium civilization. The new state, new interpretations of art and culture with the presence of various influences and currents have created a new picture about the development of culture in this territory.

Medieval construction and architecture are best met through the monuments that today are situated in the very center of the town Podgorica – the church of Sveti Djordje and Nemanjin grad (NEMANJA’S TOWN). Small church with one transept, built in a pre roman style, according to its architectonic traits it probably was built in XI century. During the tumultuous history of the town and this territory, it was damaged several times, in order for it to get a relatively new appearance, with widening in the XIX century.

The era of Balsici and Crnojevici, dynasties which brought in fresfh blood in art and culture, is one of the most important in the history of Montenegro. The appearance of the first print shop, first among South Slavs, was of the greatest culturally historical importance for the entire region, as well as for Podgorica. The tradition of the print shop, which lasted very shortly, was continued by Bozidar Vukovic – Podgoricanin. The importance of his work, as felt in far away Romania, Bulgaria, and Russia, and the art and the culture of the XVI century in Podgorica is unimaginable without his work. In 1540. he was buried on the Island Starcevo on Skadar Lake. His works were sometimes the only contact with the art and literature in the up coming period of Turkish domination.

Islamic influence was reflected in all cultural manifestations of this territory. Medieval art, embodied only in architecture and painting of smaller churches was the only equivalent to the Turkish wave, which left little, characteristic, important material, culturally – historical, and architectonic monuments. From the 5 century domination of the Turks we have Vezirov most (VIZIRE’S BRIDGE) on Moraca, which was ruined in 1944 when the Germans were leaving the town, and mosques of Glavatovici and Osmanagici. The greatest part of the manuscript literature is of a religious character with ornament details, in Turkish and Arabic language. The greatest part of the churches were ruined by the Tursk, and the people renewed them starting from the XVIII century. During the Turkish reign in Podgorica there was a school for Muslim children, and the Christian citizenship only in the last decade of the XVIII got the permit for the opening of the primary school. From this period with its significance and beauty stands out the Turkish bath – Banja (SPA), on the banks of Ribnica, which currently is the meeting place of the intellectuals and artists, and devotees of the book.

The liberation of Podgorica was the opening of the town towards the new culturally – historical horizons. Without the professional culturally artistic institutions, amateur associations were the carriers of the cultural development of Podgorica. Theater activity is being organized form the so called Podgorica dilettante association “Napredak” (PROGRESS). First Podgorica’s singing association named “Branko” was founded in 1892, and it lived for 50 years not breaking its, for society, extremely important work. Male mixed choir, tambourine orchestra, and the small saloon orchestra made the association which was mostly assembled from Podgorica’s tradesman and craftsmen. In a shorter period of time the association also started a lower music school. Drama, choir, and reciting section of KAA Abrasevic, which was founded in 1924. often faced problems with the authorities of the town. Namely, the revolutionary action and program orientation which was led by Stanko Dragojevic, faced with prohibition of every kind of activity, arrests and in the end with the abolition of the association itself in 1936. The cultural life of Podgorica in this period was determined by the Folk University, Working home, and the Club of students. Rural areas often had modest but important libraries and reading rooms, which were managed by the teachers and the students. The lack of space adequate for engaging in culturally artistic contents largely impeded the development of culture in Podgorica. The city library, which originates from the period of the World War I could not have been restored interesting, the first movie hall was built in 1932, and until then the projections were given in the hall of the hotel “Imperijal” (IMPERIALIST), as well as the majority of other culturally artistic events.

1930’s bring also the development of the literary life in Podgorica. The appearance of literary papers, as well as those which were arranged y the Podgorica’s pupils and students, gave a new dimension to the written word in the culture of the present capital town. The first paper appeared in Podgorica in 1907, and somewhat later, with the development of the political action we can also see some paper of political profile appearing, as well as several expert papers which didn’t last long.

What is interesting, the sport life of the town begins in the 1920’s, and since its beginning it carried the characteristics of class clashes – civil and regime sport club “Balsic” and work sport club “Buducnost” reflected the division and class intolerance if the citizenship.

The development of the educational institutions in Podgorica had a long journey, from rare and monastery secular schools in the suburbs of the town, to the modern university center, with almost all present fields and areas of scientific work. Podgoric high school, today almost a symbol of the town, in 2007 will be celebrating 100 years of its existence, rich with both important professors and even more famous student, who with their scientific and revolutionary acts changed the borders of the cultural not just Podgorica, but also of the entire Montenegro. Development of the school infrastructure on all levels and the wide educational - cultural activity in the second half of the XX century made the town an educational and cultural center of the republic. University of Montenegro was formed in 1974, with its main seat in Podgorica, which developed in harmony with the growing needs of the state itself, and today gathers 18 faculties with 72 study programs.

Podgorica is the meeting point of the Association of the literates of Montenegro, fine art artists, drama creators, musicians, journalists and all those who include themselves with their action in the Montenegrin cultural life. The foundation of the culturally – artistic associations and Artistic pavilion was the base for the development of culture in a wider plan. With the foundation of the modern gallery Podgorica has become and fine art center of Montenegro. Montenegrin Folk Theatre was founded in 1953 and it nurtures Montenegrin drama and influences the development of cultural cooperation and promotion of Montenegro in international scopes.

Cultural informational center Budo Tomovic, was founded in 1956, and it continued the work of the so called Dom omladine (YOUTH HOME) which is the successful continuator of the Youth center. Folklore ensembles as well as the drama troupes make the basis of the cultural actions of this institution.

Folk theatre was founded in 1953 in the former Titograd, and is the carrier of the theater production in Montenegro. The nurture of the Montenegrin drama literature and international cultural cooperation today are the mark of the Montenegrin Folk Theater which is located in the center of the town in a building of exquisite beauty, which was erected after the disastrous fire which ruined the old building. In town we also have the City Theater operating, and one of the most important cultural events in the sphere of theater is the festival of the International alternative theater (FIAT) which gathers theater groups from all over the world.

Podgorica is also a town of galleries. Beside the mentioned Artistic pavilion, the ones that stand out in this field are those in Krusevac – The Castle of Petrovici, next to which there is also the Home of the Montenegrin Prince’s bodyguard. Today in these galleries cultural manifestations of all kinds are constantly being held, from the nights of chamber orchestra, over the promotion of books, t individual and joined exhibitions of painters not just of local but also of regional importance. Galleries Most (BRIDGE) and Centar (CENTER) often open their doors to sculptors and exhibitions, of usually journal photography, with which they enrich the cultural offer of the town in cultural sense. The center of contemporary art of Montenegro with pretension to become the leading institution in organizing, most often visual manifestations, organizes also the Montenegrin triennial of young, a traditional manifestation with a goal of promoting the artists younger than 30, like Irena Lagator, Nikola Simanic and others. A range of smaller private galleries supplements the painting offer in this reach and respected market.

Montenegrin Academy of Science and Art (CANU) was founded in 1973 with the sections of natural and social studies, and arts is the institution in whose scope operate the most imminent scientific workers and artistic creators from the Universities, scientific institutes, and artistic associations. The rich library of the academy and the regular trade of the publications with almost 200 other scientific libraries in country and abroad, is a real treasure, and the academy itself represents an unavoidable institution in great state intellectual undergoes, such as the marking of 500 years since the foundation of the printing of Oktoih.

Recent activity of the institution Museums and galleries of the town contributes the mausoleum offer of Podgorica as an obligatory segment of culturally – tourist offer of the town. Beside the Museum of the town in center of Podgorica, for the visitor and a history fun interesting museum could be the one on Medun, in which the house of Marko Miljanov is situated. The distinguished Montenegrin duke, who beside his proved physical fight for Montenegro, in his late years started to promote the examples of humanity and heroism, beside the bronze monument in town he got an adequate museum in which one can see numerous documents and exhibits from the dukes everyday life. Especially interesting is the collection of firearms, traditional Montenegrin one, and the decorations and necessities of that time. This famous Montenegrin learned to write near the end of his life, and to his countrymen he let in legacy immortal examples of Humanity and Heroism, a measure according to which even the present Montenegrin guide themselves in “defending yourself from others, and others from yourself”. In the upper town beside the tracks of the medieval fortress there is a little church, next to which the grave of this Montenegrin literate and hero is.

As an ecological state, with the bio diversity which is stunning because of the size of Montenegro, the state invests significant means in promotion and preservation of the environment. In 1961 in Montenegro the first natural collection was founded, which after several years grew into several thousands of exhibits of all kinds. Museum institution of natural profile, better known Natural museum, was founded in 1955, and flora and fauna which it offers as exhibits is growing from year to year, achieving greater significance and importance, especially in the 1990’s when Montenegro declared itself as an ecological state, with the intention of complete preservation of nature.

Museum offer of the town is supplemented by the private and public institutions among which mostly dominates the ethnographic offer and whose work is not less important for the diversity and richness of the cultural offer of the town. Among these dominates the recently renewed Kusleova kuca (KUSLE’S HOUSE) on the banks of Ribnica. On the same spot, on the opposite bank one can see a Turkish bath – Banja (SPA), which until recently was the meeting place of various cultural employees and cultural artistic associations, and since recently, as a part od the Cultural – informational center Budo Tomovic, there is a bookstore – reading place – gallery and café Karver.

Since recently, town Podgorica gets a new face, concerning the monuments which mark the historical great man of Montenegrin existence. A recently unveiled monument to Sveti Petar Cetinjski, and impressive statue, placed in front of the University of Montenegro, is a bestowing of honor to one of the greatest Montenegrin philosophers and peacemakers in always divided and passionate Montenegro. His heir, Petar II Petrovic Njegos, in 1956 got a nice park in the center of the town, as well as the great monument, the work of Sreten Stojanovic. Today both the park and the monument are the urban topographies and meeting places, at the statues which emits both war and poetic sentiment. Somewhat further, his contemporary, Serbian vozhd Karadjordje has his monument in the so called Karadjordje Park, identical to the one which is in front of the temple of Sveti Sava in Belgrade. In front of the building of the City library, on a real place for that, several years ago a monument of Marko Miljanov, a bard of Montenegrin ethic, was placed. In the place where in 1918. Podgorica Parliament was held, across the building of the Parliament of the republic of Montenegro, on a high pedestal, a monument to King Nikola I, the last dynasty representative of the House of Petrovici, was erected, who from the same place, almost 100 years ago was exiled. On the top of the hill Gorica, in the very center of the town, there is a monument to the Partizan fighter – a mausoleum with the remains of 97 national heroes from the war of National Liberation. At this place, on every Day of victory over fascism, the representatives of the Montenegrin authority and military lay down the wreaths, traditionally giving honor to those who gave their lives for the benefit of up coming generations. Podgorica is rich with busts which in suitable places give honor to revolutionaries,, writers, and to all those who embroidered their being and their work in their town and state. Beside Stanko Dragojevic, across the hotel there is a bust of the famous Bozidar Vukovic – Podgoricanin (A man from Podgorica). Commemorative plaques often unveil to the passers-by the birth houses, and spaces in which distinguished Montenegrin and Podgorica artists worked. On of the most distinguished representatives of the modernism in South Slavs – Borislav Pekic was born in the center of Podgorica. Risto Stijovic, the greatest sculptor from these areas, born in Stara Varos (OLD TOWN), in the heart of Podgorica, got the suitable acknowledgment in a shape of rearranged, and for all those interested, open home; the attention on the house will be drawn by the commemorative plaque which was placed there by the association of the amateur and professional artists “Slikarski uranak” (PAINTING’S EARLY RISING). Stijovic, who himself gave to Podgorica his works, such as the one given to the Montenegrin voluntaries who died in the World War I, and the already mentioned bust of the printer, Bozidar Vukovic, is considered to be one of the most distinguished citizens of Podgorica, whose artistic range went dee into the spheres of European high art.

Podgorica today is rich with modern monuments dedicated to Aeksandr Sergeyevich Pushkin, a famous Russian poet, which Podgorica received as a gift from the Russian capital. The honor to the famous Montenegrin fighter Vasos Mavrovouniotis was given in a shape of a bust which was made in cooperation with the Greek consulate as a memory of a warrior who took part in the Greek liberation wars.

The least that Podgorica could do as a thank you note to the Russian poet, actor and Boehm Alexander Visotcki, was to erect a modern monument on a bank of Moraca. In his statements Visotcki often said that if he could have two home countries beside Russia he would chose solely Montenegro.

In front of the Law Faculty today we have the monument of Valtazar Bogisic, whose contribution to Montenegrin political and legislative life is great.

From the rare remains of the past, the visitor of Podgorica will for sure first meet the impressive Sahat kula (CLOCK TOWER), which symbolically, measuring time, stands on the border of the old and the new part of the town. Since recently tiled and arranged square is the place on which the tower is situated, which in the second half of the XVIII century was built by Hadzi pasha Osmanagic.

Growing into a European capital, Podgorica is becoming a center of numerous international cultural institutions. Former American cultural center, after a several year break appeared in a new form, under the name of American Corner. Beside the mediating role between the citizens and the American consulate, American Corner grows into a cultural institution of an educational character. Beside the great library this institution offers unique contact with the American periodic and daily press, various guides for getting to know the educational programs of the USA, as well as the reading room with exceptional copies of reference books, dictionaries and other useful editions. Similar department of the British Informational Counsel today exists, even though in a somewhat changed form, getting Britain close to the citizens of Podgorica. A former rich library of this institution was almost completely given to the library of the Department for English language and literature on the Faculty of Philosophy, while a certain part went to the Institute for foreign languages. French cultural center and Moscow culturally informational center found their place on a map of institutions of culture of the capital city of Montenegro.

From the moment of its existence Podgorica has always bore important personalities, important even for the wider region. On a cross road towards the north and the south and under constant presence of wars,, the most famous people from Podgorica have always beside their cultural – educational action, bore a mark of the liberation and revolutionary fight. From Miljan Vukov and Marko Miljanov who with their political, war and literary actions compelled the town, over the contemporary fighters such as Stanko Dragojevic, Mitar Bakic and Mirko Vesovic we come to our contemporaries who mark the transition from the XX to the XXI century. Extremely rich literary scene is marked by the works of Balsa Brkovic, Ognjen Spahic, Ksenija Popovic and many other extremely young creators. The awakening of the Montenegrin film owes a lot to the works of Nikola Vukcevic and Marija Perovic, through whose movies young Podgorica actors such as Marija Vickovic, Viktor Gatulin, Petar Ilic and others mature. The drama work is marked by the effort of Blagota Erakovic and Dragan Koprivica. Musical Podgorica scene in the domain of classical music is marked by Vili Ferdinandi, Igor Perazic, Stevan Kraljevic, and in the domain of pop music we have Sergej Cetkovic, Andrijana Bozovic, Marija Bozovic, Bojan Marovic, Marko Vukcevic, Ivana i Nela Popovic and many others. In the recent period we can notice the awakening of the rock ‘n’ roll scene with which extremely young bends dominate such as Autogeni trening, group Post Mortem, and many others whose voice today in Podgorica is worth hearing.

Sacral facilities

The church has preserved frescoes which date from the XVI century, but because of the tumultuous past of the town, very few manuscripts and icons are conserved, even though it is reliably known that the church was a rich treasury. By its form very specific, the church of Sveti Djordje becomes one of the oldest witnesses of the history of town. Beside it in Podgorica there are several older sacral facilities, such as church in Srpska, a smaller Zeta village, which during its sanctification was the witness of the imprisonment of the founder of the dynasty Petrovic – Danilo Scepcevic Petrovic. In 1709. the decisive bishop Danilo, who started the inquiry of converts to Islam, was by trick captured in this church, and this event in Mountain Wreath was described by Petar II Petrovic Njegos (“I went down your rope, and the rope almost tore apart”). The medieval Christian art, under the pressure of Otoman (Turkish) empire and Islamizing has been best preserved in the architecture and painting of this type of small churches. Certain monasteries and church facilities are picturesque, and among them in the suburbs of Podgorica we have Monastery Celija Piperska (CELL OF PIPERI), then a little bit more north, Monastery Duga, and Monastery Zdrebaonik. On Velja gora there is a legacy of duke of Rovci, Vuksan Bulatovic. The ruined churches were renewed by the people and by doing so they left in legacy one uninterrupted line of spiritual achievements. Not far from the town there is also Monastery Dajbabe, which in its base is in a shape of a cross and represents an interesting sacral object for visit. It is located below the Dajbabe hill which dominantly rises above the Zeta plain. For a visitor from any part of the world this monastery will be an unrepeatable spiritual experience, considering the fact that the work of nature and man (the church is located in the cave), here is in the co – living in celebration of God. Considering its extremely favorable geographic position and almost very day development of road and traffic infrastructure the visit to some of the churches and monasteries on the banks islands of Skadar lake would be more than recommended. In that way on the island Starcevo, on Skadar Lake, a picturesque church of the Holly Virgin, next to the grave of Bozidar Vukovic – Podgoricanin, makes a small island special for seeing and visiting; and when you add the fact that to the majority of this type of islands and monasteries you can come in the boat, by riding over the one of the most beautiful European lakes, the very thought of the visit is even more beautiful.

Only an hour away of ride by car towards the north of Montenegro, worthy of visiting is by all means monastery Moraca, the legacy from the age of Nemanja state. The inscription which is preserved until nowadays shows that the monastery was erected in 1252. a church in raska style, dedicated to Holy Virgin, was built in the oldest architectonic style of the Serbian states. During the XVI and XVII century a group of the most distinguished old masters, zoographs and scriveners of old church manuscripts stayed in it. The influence of their work was felt in all areas of Montenegro so this monastery even today is thought to be a germ of the Montenegrin culture. Frescoes such as the Raven feeds the prophet Ilija, is one of the numerous from the three periods in which the frescoes were made. The most beautiful ones belong to the period of the early existence of the monastery, XIII century, and among the late ones stands out the work of Djordje Mitrofanovic, the greatest master of the XVII century in these areas.

In the beginning of 1990’s the construction of the temple of the Christ’s resurrection has began on the right bank of Moraca, next to the small church which for decades has been serving the believers of the orthodox confession in Podgorica. This grandiose religious object with time is becoming one of the greatest temples of the orthodox spirituality in the world. Worthy of mentioning is also a little church near the castle of King Nikola, built in the XIX century.

Only a kilometer away from the center of the town in Podgorica there is a modern building of a catholic church, which is the center of gathering of the citizens of a Roman – Catholic confession, who mostly inhabit the area of Malesija. The visit to Tuzi, a small place in the heart of Malesija, and the talk with the local citizens would be an ideal opportunity to find out something more about the spirit of the Catholicism in these areas, as well as to visit some very beautiful sacral facilities, such as the church in the very center of Tuzi.

A visible Islamic influence on the history of the town, especially in the part of Stara Varos, has left even until nowadays the monuments of religious character which complement the picture of the multinational Podgorica. Two mosques stand out with the characteristic style of construction and with its importance for the Islamic religious community. Glavatovica mosque, built in XVI century suffered great destructions during the World War II, while the Osmanagica mosque suffered great damages. Today, renewed and placed in monuments of culture both, with its specific appearance and unavoidable mausoleum the so – called turbeh (burial chamber) allows that the non – Islamic citizenship of Podgorica, as well as the visitors of the town meet this oriental culture.

Monuments of culture – old towns

Medun

At 12 kilometers north east from Pogorica there is a former fortified town of the Illyrian tribe Labeati – Medeon or Meteon. Erected in the III or IV century A.D Medun, as it is called today, grew into an important stand point and pre guard of the joined Illyrian tribes in the fight against the up coming roman conqueror. The greatest strength and importance it had during the time of the Illyrian king – Gencijem during the middle century, and during the middle century, and the reign of the Turks, Medun survived as an important town. The very settlement is made of the lower town in in which one can feel extreme presence of the so – called Illyrian Cyclops building, which is dominated by the stone blocks, often longer than 2 meters. Upper town is more attached for the reign of the despot Djuradj Brankovic, in the middle of the XV century, after which it was taken over by the Turks, in 1467, making the final blow to the remains o the domain of the despot in Zeta. Stevan Crnojevic tried to get it back into the hand of the Montenegrins, but the strong Otoman army and the very architecture of the town, have made Medun an unconquerable fortress. In 1833 the already above mentioned Marko Miljanov Popovic was born here, one of the wisest Montenegrin leaders. In 1971. in here a museum of Marko Miljanov, who through his literary works gave a picture of fight and life of his tribe in Montenegro and Albania, was opened.

Duklja

In the mouth of Zeta in Moraca, only three kilometers away from Podgorica, we have interesting diggings and ruins of the old town Duklja, Doclea, Dioclea. Devastated by the Goths in the late V century, and hit by the earthquake thirty years later, Duklja, in difference to Medun did not grow into a medieval, and by that into a modern settlement. As a big lodgment of the Illyrian tribe Dokleati, under Romans it grew into the most advanced town of present Montenegro. This area was named by it, Dioklitije. Until the XI century Montenegro was more or less known by this name, when it is replaced with the name Zeta, which dominates during the middle century. Tradition, as much as unreliable in the same way the only source says that the ton was founded by the roman emperor Dioklecijan, and that by his name the lodgment got the name. Massif walls like parallelograms, the remains and traces of the bridge on Moraca, ruins of the palaces, numerous sarcophagi with the richly decorated bas – relief, tombstones with Latin inscription are witnesses of the size and importance of Duklja in that period of which we are speaking. The famous English archeologist Arthur John Evans dedicated 7 years of his work to the study of Duklja, and his findings represent the precious contribution to the world of the Montenegrin archeology. The sculptures and fragments of the artistic items and decorations of the craft production testify f the rich culture of this ancient roman town. 40.000 citizens in I century A.D. even today is a big number for the ¾ of the Montenegrin towns.

Nemanjica grad

In the very heart of the town n the mouth of Ribnica into Moraca one can find the remains of the bulwarks and towers of the medieval fortification of Ribnica. According to tradition here was born the founder of the Serbian dynasty Nemanjici. It is a very strong fortified lodgment which only partially resisted the ravages of time, and today, after smaller architectonic interventions, it represents a monument of culture and a mini picnic area for people from Podgorica and fisherman. The picturesque caves in the very complex contribute the feeling that the history has stopped for the moment, and remained a part of the Nemanjica town for ever.


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